Friday 30 January 2015

Turco Innocenzo Granaccia 2010




Inland Savona, in Quiliano village. Here the grape variety used - Granaccia, Garnacha, Grenache, Cannonau in Sardinia - is nothing but the Alicante Bouschet, of Spanish origin, not to be confused with the French clone, the most cultivated in the region of Liguria.

Eighteen months of steel for this lively ruby red, with an appealing nose.
Plenty of small red fruits - raspberry, strawberry, currant - accompanied by balsamic and vegetables notes - eucalyptus, rosemary and mint - and a good mineral trace.

Tasting stands for freshness and a symmetrical correspondence nose-palate. The prevalence of the fruit is balanced by good acidity, which pushes up the call to sip, for an high drinkability.

A genuine glass, balanced - 13.5 alcohol not perceived - and gentle tannins, medium persistence, with sincere finals calls of red berry fruits, white pepper and a touch of graphite.


Friday 23 January 2015

Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo-Ravera 2005




When on the table you have Barolo roast braised, choosing liquid is easy, obvious and, maybe, "trivial", except that in the chair you meet Mr. “Citric” Beppe Rinaldi.
I have no doubt, it's up to him, the others in the cellar can wait.

It’s red, without nails and other nuances. Nose, absolutely not reticent, attacking immediately with a lot of rose and violet, a fresh and clear expression of red fruit: black cherry, raspberry and strawberry.
Formidable the spicy attitude - cinnamon and mace - and the mineral trace that blend with feelings earthy, undergrowth and clear projections of bitter chocolate.

This incipit leads to high expectations buds, promptly confirmed, expressing taste of elegance, chiseled and plywood.
The taste, electric and fresh, does not differ one iota from the olfactory impressions.
The palate is very fresh and electric - explosing cherry and black cherry - white pepper and marked touches of slate, expertly mixed with humus, rusty ferrous notes, licorice root and tobacco.

As always, with Rinaldi’s bottles, good acid-tannic balance, with alcohol never, ever felt. Unleashed and furious drink, for a refined progression, very persistent, long and sharp, with notes of china, cocoa and coffee powder.

Respect for Mr. Beppe.


Friday 16 January 2015

Tarlant Champagne Zéro Brut Nature n.v.




Here we are in Oeuilly, in the heart of the Marna Valley, and Tarlant is an ancient champenoise family, winemakers since 1687.

This is an assemblage, in equal percentages, of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, with the addition of reserve wines, has not played malolactic fermentation, stopping almost five years sur lattes, with disgorgement in January 2013.

The cup is yellow, almost golden, with green flashes and a fine and continuous effervescence.
It starts quietly, softly, but I knew it; after it attacks with a nose of fresh grilled bread, white flowers, nuts and many citrus - lemon and mandarin - and a strong mineral characterization and aromas of mushroom.

In the mouth is convincing for consistency and for its structure that reflects the terroir. Despite being a zero dosage, the straightness is measured and caressing. The sip is very balanced.

A sharp and elegant minerality, a strong and clean presence of iodate and brackish aromas, give completeness to this drink, sleek, with beautiful persistence, precision and finesse.


Tuesday 13 January 2015

Obermairl Hof Riesling 2011




An Italian Riesling from North-East.
The young vineyards, biodynamic certified, are located in the Isarco Valley.

It begins with a very fine bubble, of short duration. The nose is very "green", with the scent of hay, quite pronounced, and then also thyme, sage and pepper. The second smell is very fruity - apricot and peach - strongly tinged by minerality.

The taste, very fresh, dry and straight, resumes, with order and rightness, vegetal and fruity tones, with extensive references to the hay, herbs and peach.
The drink is adorned with clear acidity, while large doses of graphite and hydrocarbons help increasing the aromatic supply, fine, slender, but rigorous. It ends fairly long, with good persistence and high drinkability.

Combined, very stimulating and delicious, with homemade focaccia from yeast. 

Tuesday 6 January 2015

Forteto della Luja Monferrato Rosso Le Grive 2007




This winery is based in Loazzolo, a small village in the countryside of Asti.

Today I’m writing about an assembled red.
This is Pinot Noir and Barbera, in not declared percentages, for a wedding, perhaps a bit unusual and atypical, not so common, not so obvious.

A dark and almost impenetrable purple, for a sweet nose, with very ripe dark fruit - blackberry and blueberry, plum, cherry and currant - a delicate violet and rose and a hint of vanilla.

The palate comes fresh and firm, losing much of the nasal sweetness and assumes a dry and vertical profile.
The taste is vinous and fleshy, full but velvety, and resumes the fruity and floral aspects, even if the spicy aspect is slightly unfinished.

The satisfactory acid-tannic and alcoholic balance, has allowed a smooth drink, accompanying “ad hoc” homemade pappardelle with gravy.