Here we are in the Loire and the Chenin grape, lends, usually very well to aging. And this bowl, fortunately, confirmed the reputation.
The cap does not seem new, really it is, you would give him 2/3 hours, not 23 years.
A golden color, light and fat. The first impression is that I stopped at a gas station: only oil, hydrocarbon, if you prefer, and a hefty sum of reduced. But I did not hurry and I am waiting for that it stretches.
After a few hours, it comes the finesse, with the powerful hydrocarbon tones that have given way to smoky notes, also peat, mixed with fruits confits - quince and apricot - and hints of dried flowers.
Touches of honey and beeswax evidenced by the many springs of the bottle, but winter is still far away and the evolution, at the time, does not rhyme with oxidation.
The aromas continually evolving and climbing octaves of chalky minerality, streaked with orange peel and grapefruit and hints of mushroom.
In the mouth it is coup de coeur and impresses me so much freshness. There are material and thickness, consistency and a lot of youth. Thanks to a sharp acidity, incredible and unexpected, herbs, dried flowers and citrus soar.
Sip intact and tense - a stylish concentrated mineral salt, flowers and fruit - ending, long and intense, with hints of anise, black tea and walnut.
In two words: the nose is more nuanced and "forward", while the mouth is very young, but already full.
Merci Monique e Tessa Laroche.