Friday, 31 July 2015

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roche aux Moines 1992

Here we are in the Loire and the Chenin grape, lends, usually very well to aging. And this bowl, fortunately, confirmed the reputation.

The cap does not seem new, really it is, you would give him 2/3 hours, not 23 years.

A golden color, light and fat. The first impression is that I stopped at a gas station: only oil, hydrocarbon, if you prefer, and a hefty sum of reduced. But I did not hurry and I am waiting for that it stretches.

After a few hours, it comes the finesse, with the powerful hydrocarbon tones that have given way to smoky notes, also peat, mixed with fruits confits - quince and apricot - and hints of dried flowers.
Touches of honey and beeswax evidenced by the many springs of the bottle, but winter is still far away and the evolution, at the time, does not rhyme with oxidation.
The aromas continually evolving and climbing octaves of chalky minerality, streaked with orange peel and grapefruit and hints of mushroom.

In the mouth it is coup de coeur and impresses me so much freshness. There are material and thickness, consistency and a lot of youth. Thanks to a sharp acidity, incredible and unexpected, herbs, dried flowers and citrus soar.
Sip intact and tense - a stylish concentrated mineral salt, flowers and fruit - ending, long and intense, with hints of anise, black tea and walnut.
In two words: the nose is more nuanced and "forward", while the mouth is very young, but already full.
Merci Monique e Tessa Laroche.

Friday, 24 July 2015

Legras & Haas Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut n.v.

Not deceive you the maison was founded only in 1991, the Legras’ are winemakers since seven generations. We are in Chouilly, one of the five Grand Cru villages of the Côte des Blancs, where the company cultivates 15 hectares of the 35 available (the others are in Vavray, Bassu and Les Riceys).

Last year, while I chatted and drank with François Legras, owner (with his wife and three children) and Chef de cave, we agreed on many issues, not least how this bdb represents the style maison.

It stimulates the nostrils with chalk, followed by crisp citrus tones - lemon and citron - but also plum and pear, rosemary and thyme, with a hazelnut enchanting me.

The palate is fresh and round. The taste confirms the richness of the olfactory sequence, with valuable and lively mix between minerality and a significant fruity presence. Elegant creaminess and uncontrollable drink, closing fast, with references of anise and chalk.

Excellent sips as an aperitif.

Friday, 17 July 2015

Vincent Couche Champagne Rosé Eclipsia Brut n.v.

About 13 hectares grown by Vincent Couche, biodynamic since 2008, in the Côte des Bar, with an annual production of about 80,000 bottles.

This is rosé d'assemblage, consisting of 80 Pinot Noir, from vineyards in Buxeuil - Kimmeridgian soil, clay and marl - and 20 Chardonnay, from Montgueux - chalky soil, the only one of the Côte des Bar - perhaps the most interesting of all terroirs of the Aube (South Champagne), where the white grapes, here, gives really appreciable results.

A beautiful pink and lively perlage, not really fine, the nose offers subtle vegetable tones standing next to dark notes of cherry and strawberry, fig and pomegranate, with a spicy profile that flatters the nostrils.

The taste is fresh, powerful and determined, however, by virtue of an incisive acidity, is able to combine agility with structure, finding, thus, his right balance. The mouth is wide and vinous, with the fruity aspects - cherry, raspberry, strawberry and myrtle - dominating and imposing themselves, on those spicy.
It closes with great freshness, medium length, slightly bitter, with a touch of tamarind, well mixed with savory minerality.

A young producer, with a strong personality, met recently, convinced of his choices, which I will follow very carefully.

Friday, 10 July 2015

Denis Montanar Merlot Borc Dodon 2011

About 13,000 bottles for this Merlot, from sandy soils, mixed clay, which soaks a week by fiberglass, only indigenous yeasts, then 16 months in contact with the fine lees, no fining or filtration.

The taste made one year ago, in a salon of natural wines, pleased me and urged me to buy a few bottles, also in virtue of the fact that, usually, I’m not crazy about this variety; however, this one, I found it at odds with the usual sweetish Merlot. And now that I've tested over a bowl, I can say, I had seen good.

A nice bright ruby red with so much fresh fruit - cherries and currants, raspberry and blackberry - which is enriched by touches of herbs and balsamic, with strong characterization of stony and tangy minerality.

In the mouth it shows just as fresh and sharp fleshiness. Nothing to do with the softness most commonly encountered. The drink is vertical and agile, with an acid thorn that supports and strengthens, the richness of the fruit, while the mineral aspect gives further sprint. Pleasant and persistent, satisfies the palate, until the end, with balsamic sensations and saline.

Also great during hot, served chill.

Friday, 3 July 2015

Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Blanc Génération XIX 2010

Organic and biodynamic culture, for this family of winemakers from Loire, passing the baton from father to son, from 1513 and coming to the twentieth generation.

This Sauvignon Blanc, produced in 6.000 bottles, ferments in conical stainless steel and spent about a year on the lees.

Flashes green combine with a radiant gold.

The scents, elegant, clean and without swollen ostentation, express themselves, at first, the tropical fruits - stands the passion fruit - peel and citrus - grapefruit and tangerine - then exploring vegetable and floral territories - nettle and tomato leaf, thyme and broom - and conclude with a solid mineral identity - iodine and oyster - which explains, without ambiguity, as the layer of Kimmeridgian is markedly present and characterizes these subsoils.

The taste has exemplary acidity and does not change, from the score olfactory and draws, in a precise sequence, the fruity and vegetable expressions, while the mineral and iodized structure gaining more and more weight and size.

Glass of terroir, straight and structured, very persistent, savory and, inevitably, all oyster and flint.
Huitres, ça va sans dire.