Taittinger Champagne Brut Réserve n.v.

It is the numerically powerful business card of the Maison, representing three-quarters of the entire production, that is, about 4 milions bottles.

It’s an assemblage of 40 different crus, with the three classic Champagne grapes: usually Chardonnay 40%, Pinot Noir 40% and Pinot Meunier 20%, except sometimes a few percentage variation. Never less than three years on yeasts, while the weight of the reserve wines does not drop below 20 percent.

My bowl, whose disgorging dates one year ago, has a fresh nose, with vanilla, brioche and hazel hints, a subtle floral honeycomb, many citrus fruits, even candied, small red fruit - strawberry and red currant – with a thin mineral texture.

In the mouth there is freshness, but also a background of sweet sensations, with a maturity of fruit, spotted by vanilla ripples. While the level of the bowl drops, steadily increases the size of the sips.

Medium length end, rounded with vanilla and candied fruit.

Try it with sea shells.

Thank you, Domenico

R.I.P.

Labet Chardonnay Fleurs 2013

In Rotalier, a small village of the Jura (France North-East), Julien, Romain and Charline, Alain's children, lead this wonderful wine-growing company, which I personally visited, few years ago.

This Chardonnay, from old vineyards - planted between 1953 and 1975, on the blue moon of the Lias - is not sous voile, but ouillé. So barrique 228 liters, Burgundy style winemaking, possessing its specific and determined territorial character.

Even though this is a entry-level wine, it is thin and fresh, declaring citrus, predominantly lemon, fruit of passion and pineapple, yellow flowers and lively minerality.

The expressiveness continues to the palate, coherent and precise, with an exciting mineral attitude, mixed with fruity stamp, generating harmonious sips, whose acidity accentuates the drink.

Length closing, with refreshing minerality and exotic fruit returns.

Tenuta Roveglia Lugana Limne 2015

Nice tropical nose, revolving around mango and maracuja, then tails of yellow peach and pear, some herbaceous elements and a thin mineral line.

On the palate, it enters warm and glyceric, recalling, quite consistently, the olfactory canvas, except for the mineral profile, completely lost.

Low rhythm sips and low acidity, which cannot to counteract a sugary residue too perceptible, ending to slow down the fluidity of the drink.

It ends alcoholic and smooth, with fleeting persistence.

Un Mare di Champagne 5th Edition 11-13 June 2017 | Alassio (Liguria) Italy

For the bubbles lovers, please mark the fifth edition of "Un Mare di Champagne", the annual event that turns Alassio City in the Italian capital of Champagne. As usual, the Macramé Consortium - Dire, Fare, Mangiare - organizes the event, whose location, also for this year, will be the Grand Hotel & SPA, in Alassio - Liguria.

 

You will start on Sunday, June 11th, in the big square of Alassio city, there will be a particular Street Food version: good food and dishes, prepared by the chefs of the Consortium, will be accompanied by precious nectaric goblets and will transform the splendid Ligurian town into a gourmet open-air restaurant. Territory products, combined with Champagne, but also typical local wines. 

 

You will continue on Monday, June 12th, from 12 am to 8 pm, on the panoramic terrace of the Grand Hotel Alassio & SPA, with more than 140 tasting labels - representing over 50 Maison - accompanied by gastronomic pairings, selected by Selecta, a leader in the highest quality food.

 

The program provides, on Tuesday, June 13th, the Gala Dinner, whose tasting menu will be prepared by all the Macramé Chefs.

 

For information and booking the Gala Dinner call +39 366 4815006. 

 

For the detailed program, visit the Macramé website, as well as the social pages fb, tw and instagram.

 

Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve s.a.

Over 60 cru from which come the grapes originating this cuvée d'assemblage, of the three classic Champagne grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) in equal parts.

Massive and influential the weight of the reserve wines (40%), composed equally by Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Only steel and never less than 4 years on yeasts.

My bowl, as reported on the back label, is up to five years and disgorged in 2014.

In the glass, a golden wonder, with finest bubbles.

A rich and complex bouquet, starting with burrowy sensations and intense grilled and roasting notes, continues with apricot and bergamot confit, yellow flowers and honey, closing on mild notes of undergrowth and a thin mineral profile.

Elegance and roundness, in a generous palate, by oxidative cut. Full body and beautiful articulation, which faithfully reproduce the aromas of the olfactory fan, gaining chalky weight and yielding a thread on the freshness side.

Mature and enveloping finish, with clear citrus confit notes, almond cream and coffee powder.

The Charles Heidsieck’s “visit card”, far beyond the concept of entry-level champagne.

Pol Roger Champagne Rich

The champagne, in demi-sec version, according to Pol Roger. To understand, sugary dosage at 35 gr./lt. (The maison maintains, precisely, they are 34).

The three classic cepages champenois, in equal parts and coming from 30 different cru. There are: the Pinot Noir, coming from the Reims Mountain, the Pinot Meunier, from the Marne Valley and the Chardonnay, from the Côte des Blancs. This cuvée, to which a 25% reserve wine is added, lasts four years, at least, on yeasts.

The result? Surprising for ... dryness. But not just that. Paradoxically, I've been drinking champagne brut, and perceiving them, very dosed, unbalanced doses. Nevertheless, as always, everything revolves around mastery and the magic of balance.

You expect a liquid, very sweet. Instead, it is so explicit the balancing between dosage and acidic verve, that originates exquisitely harmonious sips, with so many greetings to sweet feelings, put on the edge.

I find all the style and the maîtrise of the maison, of course, but there is also so much stuff, not only verticality. Sweet spices, in massive doses, dried fruits and finely boisée tones, with date and caramel, to embellish.

In the mouth, shrill and structure are intermingled elegantly. Sips full of incredible acidity, with very high cleaning power, which, gastronomically, make me prefer pairing with cheeses, rather than sweet.