Maccario Dringenberg Rossese di Dolceacqua “Luvaira” 2010

A faint red and little interested in "dialogue" with the nose, for over an hour, touching pleasure expectations only in the final.

A hint of salt and a zero point of vegetable, size fruity seeking approvals and spicy note that duels, to free itself, from this general state of torpor.

Laziness? Apathy? Negligence? Even my receptors, maybe.

Pause and wait, please.

In the mouth it is better. So fresh, so much grip and a fine alcoholic control (14°). Slowly sprouting, without overdoing it, the red fruits - cherry, cassis - with earthy and animals notes, a little minerality and a balsamic vein that gives character to the palate.

The sip rows essentially smooth, with the persistence lower my expectations and returns of eucalyptus and rhubarb.

The impression, the suspect, knowing the company's products and the location of the vineyards, I was wrong, unintentionally, about the opening time.

Fortunately, I still have other bottles, so I can wait in peace, this 2010 by significant potential.

Gatinois Champagne Brut Rosé Grand Cru n.v.

Since 1696, 12 generations of winemakers, seven hectares of vineyards - 6 Pinot Noir, 1 Chardonnay - from Aÿ, Grand Cru village of the valley of the Marne, for a production about 50 thousand bottles. These, shortly, the numbers of the proprietaire récoltant Gâtinois.

I visited the company last year, obtaining good impression, so many confirmations, tasting the whole range (some of which I knew) and coming away with a considerable purchase.

This is rosé d'assemblage - 85 units of Pinot Noir, 15 Chardonnay, 24 months on the lees - which salmon dark vision, anticipates, clearly and unambiguously, the weight of the black grapes.

I find the freshness of crisp spicy hiting and sculpting the nostrils, followed by the inevitable red fruits - orange and pomegranate, bitter orange and lychee - with a strong component of mineral salt that, step by step, assumes more and more personality.

The taste preserves, with clarity, the olfactory lexicon, telling wealth of material, adorned by fruitiness and good balance between power and aromatic repertoire. Very convincing the merger between fruity, spices and minerality.

Elegant and vertical sip, structured, with medium persistence.

Rizzi Barbaresco Riserva 2001

"Reserve" means an extra year aging, a lot more for me, having acquired, in 2005, directly from Dellapiana’s family cellar. Over the years - certainly the most effective and fruitful for him - gave me a bottle in great shape, starting from the nose.

After three hours from the opening, the olfactory perceptions are fresh and very clean and not too advanced.

It smells earthy, undergrowth and roots - china and rhubarb - with withered flowers - rose and violet - a slightly fruit syrupy, but still fleshy and appetizing - cherry, plum and raspberry - a fine mineral contour, with notes of cinnamon.

The mouth is warm, elegant and decided, confirming the symmetry with the nose gear. Subtly evolved flavors and lively acidity, tannins caressing the palate and a centered balance alcohol, seal a sip rich, energetic and in harmonic progression.

Very persistent, with intense references of licorice and goudron, leather and tobacco pipe.

Great satisfaction with roast lamb.

William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2007

William Fevre is a reference domaine for the Chablis.

In the glass a pale yellow.

The olfactory framework consists of fresh flowers, citrus and lemon peel, peach, almond and jasmine. Refined and fresh mineral vein, with wonderful and intense iodine notes.

The taste is really consistent and full-bodied. Great minerality with mouth tasting like oysters. All this is supported by great freshness and acidity, with an agile structure. Sip that recalls sip and closes long and persistent.

Bottle that is clear expression of its terroir.

Bonnaire Champagne Blanc de Blancs Ver Sacrum Brut n.v.

Bonnaire equal Cremant, Cramant equal Côte des Blancs.

100% Chardonnay for this which is the spearhead of the house production.

In fact, despite being a non vintage, it has the best care, from the selection of grapes - source Cramant and Bergeres-les-Vertus - to get to vieillissement lasting at least six years, with cork - sous bouchon liège - which ensures greater maturity, development, wealth and breadth of flavors.

My bottle comes directly from the cellar of Jean-Louis and has over a year of disgorgement.

The perlage, light gold, with green reflections, is really fine and dense.

The nose has freshness and purity, typical of the Chardonnay, with precision of white fruit - peach and pear, lime and Granny apple - and clarity of flowers - wisteria and hawthorn - with a powerful, concentrated dose of that chalk coming from Cramant that only those saw, trampled and palpated, can understand.

It gives the best tasting, defending and consolidating, with cleaning and rigor, all the elegance and the aromatic richness. The 72 months sur lattes and the cork, were not in vain and really have carved the sip, conferring power, depth and complexity.

Refined final, large and persistent, with fresh references of citrus and chalk.

Take note.