Friday, 29 January 2016

Yvon Métras Beaujolais 2014

The Gamay grape has never exercised on me particular appeal, quite the opposite. However, from time to time, I also like to test it, you never know. About this producer, I have good memories of his Fleurie 2014, shared with friends, just a few weeks ago.

I tell you now that this Beaujolais in Métras declination, I did not know, I did not like it so much. Similar style to those ones of Foillard, Burgaud and Lapierre, but those have another step; in particular that one of Marcel Lapierre, another galaxy.

Not very expressive, since nose, penalized by a light volatile and, especially, by a severe reduction, which hinders greatly the red fruit expressions - strawberry, raspberry and cherry - and crushes all olfactory trends.

Despite a fresh attack, in mouth keeps faith, for broadly, to the nose setting, with a reductive heavy burden, which will release only in the final bowl. So, all with a silencer, from the fruit to the tannins, even with an acidity of notable harshness.

I like the “vins nature”, when they do not present imperfections and/or defects. Unfortunately, I have no other bottle for counterordeal, but you, already know, that often one does not do text.

Friday, 22 January 2016

Obermairlhof Kerner 2012

The Alois Ochsenreiter’s wines, also owner of Haderburg wine company, are at home on these pixels, for many reasons, primarily because they are good and I like it; then because I know quite well this family of winemakers, having been many times at the cellar and, last but not least, I know their philosophy, I find in their wines, pattern of expression of the terroir. For me it is enough.

I like the Kerner - the cross, created in 1929, between the Schiava Grossa grape and the Riesling grape - particularly that one of Alois, my favorite.

In this cup, there is a figure of fresh rocky minerality, less at the nose, more in the mouth. And then the tropical fruit - avocado and pineapple - citrus and delicate vegetable hints, hay, mowing of grasses growing in these valleys, practically untouched.

Fine matching nose-palate, where a straight acidity enriches the drink, for a mouth, wide, layered, dried by many, extremely pleasant, hints of crystalline rock.
For me it is enough.

Friday, 15 January 2016

Tenuta Dornach Pinot Nero Xx 2012

Mr. Patrick Uccelli practices biodynamic agriculture, around Salorno (a village in the north east Italy). Very few good bottles of Gewurz, Pinot Blanc and this one - number 79 of 1316 bottles produced – I am telling about today.
An exhaust color and rich classic fragrances - classic but elegant - from raspberry to cherry, currant blueberry and strawberry, with an initial and confidential spicy tone that, a little later, will acquire a nice size, net, without assuming significant pungency.
The profile is completed by a fascinating stony minerality, enriched by notes of mountain herbs and nuances of tobacco.

A soft mouth, remains tuned on the score olfactory, highlighting much progress about fruit and mineral aspects, also benefiting a plus of flavors as rhubarb, cinnamon and resin.

Sip balanced, which has been lacking a bit of acidity, even though, I admit, this has not at all affected the drink agility. The final has refined persistence, with return of dark fruit and dense balsamic notes.

Imho, one of the best PN, coming from Italy north-east.

Friday, 8 January 2016

Aimone Giobatta Vio Vermentino 2014

Maybe I never knew how to choose the right one, but usually my past with Vermentino grape, in western Liguria, excepting very rare occasions, you are always revealed or trivial, or sloth, with the inevitable final consideration: "... not bad, but not good, poor ... "

This one, however, coming from an organic company of the village of Bastia d'Albenga, I liked it, as in perfumes, as the flavors. There is a nice tone of cedar, mixed with grapefruit, with hints of thyme and rosemary and a slight sea minerality.

The mouth has so much freshness and recalls, with punctuality, the olfactory tones, giving more space to the implications of citrus and enriching the mineral value. The closure, not so short, leaves a palate with savory nuances.

Fragrances and flavors, I like this Vermentino.

Friday, 1 January 2016

Fernand Thill Champagne Grand Cru Tradition Brut s.a

Here we are in Verzy, a small village of the Marne Department and this company is now in the hands of Marie Thérèse, Fernand’s daughter.

The Brut Tradition is the entry level product. It is an assembly of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, only steel, and the 24 months passed sur lattes give a bubble not fine. Normal, almost predictable.

The dominance of white grape is heard from the nose, with fresh aromas of white flowers, a touch of citrus and other white fruits - pear and peach - with a spicy mineral stamp, enriching the bouquet.

The palate expresses freshness and delicacy, attracting more the white notes of flowers and fruit, less the minerals sensations.

A drink however balanced - insistent final calls of almond - but a bit lacking, as many champagnes of this category, about the progression and persistence.
However, I guarantee, that is a correct aperitif-champagne, going well and could be a comfortable "warm-up" for another bubble of greater caliber.