Friday, 30 December 2016

Marco De Bartoli Grappoli Del Grillo 2012

I like, regardless, that grape variety, and I think De Bartoli’s version, is one of the best. In summary, severity of moods and aromas of an island, put into the bottle.

A fresh bursting nose, wind drenched, sun and sea. Waves of solid salty minerality, plenty of fresh and dried fruit - orange and grapefruit, apricot and peach, almond and date - with beeswax and Mediterranean bush.

Dry palate, inviting and concrete, with a proper balance between the mineral and fruity structure. Upbeat acidity and strong tasty progression, complete these sips, by effective persistence, with pleasant iodinated return.

Light territoriality sips, from Contrada Samperi.

Friday, 23 December 2016

Domaine François Gerbet Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2007

One of the most celebrated Grands Crus, from Burgundy - somebody also supports the most overvalued - over 50 hectares, very parceled – about eighty owners. A wonder to behold, with its chateau surrounded by the walls.

A very difficult vintage, in Burgundy, where often it is the winegrower's ability to make the difference.

Gentle attack on the nose, with aromatic moods that are not allowed at the first glance, but needing half an hour to be defined. Then the class makes its way, declaring itself, precisely, through blueberry and strawberry, raspberry and cherry, violet and lavender, a subtle minerality and a slight spicy touch.

The palate confirms the delicate feelings and reiterates the refined elegance expression fruity, which also enlists confit tones. Balanced acidity, with fine tannic frame and fine mineral character.

A good persistence, but has been lacking, the jab, in depth. However, it is remarkable the interpretive sensitivity about this vintage, by Chantal and Maire-Andrée Gerbet.

Friday, 2 December 2016

Pol Roger Champagne Rosé Vintage 2004

It is no longer a secret - I said again several times – how much I like the style of this maison. Even in rosé variant, declinated in the Epernay cellars with 40 Chardonnay, Pinot Noir 60, added, before the draw, with a 15% of red wine - Pinot Noir always - manual remuage and seven years on the lees.

Salmon view and very fine-grained perlage, fresh smell and energetic fruitiness impact. Just enough time for a short oxygenation, the nostrils capture an intense and pleasing black pepper attack - the thread of this texture - followed by a clear evolution of fruit and red berries, from pomegranate to red orange of Sicily, from fresh strawberry to roasting nuances, light mineral touches and an amazing gentian root.

In the mouth there is all the sensual elegance, coupled with the aromatic expression of fine rosé. Structure, freshness and balance are the three fundamental pillars of this bowl, exemplary similarity of taste and smell. Straight and bittering sips, sharp mineral stretch, with peals of licorice and coffee, spice and even copious gentian.

Personality and character, in a pink dress.

Friday, 25 November 2016

Deperu Holler Vermentino of Sardegna Fria 2015

Subtitle: 15° alcohol.
Sad and disheartening, towards the end of the meal, to see the level of the bottle, just above half.
How to say, just each a glass and stop.

You could feel the subject, unfortunately mortified by that alcohol volume.
Discreet nose: exotic fruits and citrus, a marine breath, but so uncomfortable that acute alcohol.

Mouth substantially aligned, with wobbly balance.
Flaky, and not worse, only thanks to the continuous and constant ice belt. Somersaults to avoid irreversible wheelies.
Slight hints of almond and sapid touches, for a final fiery hot and sweet mold.
I was sorry.

Friday, 18 November 2016

Olivier Pithon Cuvée Laïs Blanc 2014

A very good bowl this cut of Maccabeu, Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris, from one of the most beautiful wineries in Languedoc-Roussillon.

At first sniff, intense, nervous and pleasant hydrocarbon lash, then Mediterranean scents, so ripe yellow fruit, from peach to melon, citrus, a hint of hay, a little honey and the petrol returning with authority.

Punctual in the mouth, with the hydrocarbon and a strong chalky timbre dictating the rhythm, strengthened by fitting acidity. Lively aromas, exciting clarity, that pack fat sips, tasty, by significant persistence.

Not difficult to advocate series potential aging.

Friday, 11 November 2016

Antonio Perrino Testalonga Rossese di Dolceacqua 2005

Elegant red that you declare immediately to the nose, without much circumlocution.

A walk in Arcagna hills breathing juniper and resin, Mediterranean sensations, humus and dry leaves. And then cherry and currant, flowers, herbs, with a fresh spices, enclosed in a balmy caress.

By taste, the continuation, really beautiful, what is expressed on the nose, with punctually acidity and dynamic expansion, including pleasant spiciness - cinnamon especially - and red fruit, leather and licorice.

Convincing extension taste and strong persistence, with incisive hints of savory minerality salty, mixed with eucalyptus and tobacco.

Yet another confirmation, if anyone still had some doubts, about the Rossese's potential aging. At least the Testalonga’s.