Tuesday, 30 December 2014

Deutz Champagne Cuvée William Deutz 1999

This is the haute de gamme cuvée of the Maison - 65 Pinot Noir, 35 Chardonnay and 10 Pinot Meunier - as well as the tribute to William, co-founder, with Pierre-Hubert Geldermann, of Deutz in 1838.

Bright gold, intense and crystal clear.
The nose, fine and slightly evolved, becomes slowly expressive, revealing a noble bouquet and great complexity. Attacks the fruit, ripe, white and yellow, with granny apple and quince, peach walnut, pear and apricot, embellished with floral touches of lily and jasmine.

Absolutely no spin, but giving time and leaving him climbing up a blade temperature, comes another wave of aromas: candied citrus peel - orange and grapefruit - roasting and truffles notes, almond, an heady saffron and some notes camphor even, with minerality still compressed.

The mouth is layered and full of charm, with very fine bubbles, creamy, and retraces, symmetrically, the olfactory path.
The attack is souple and large, with perfectly blending aromas. The sip maintains an evolved attitude, resulting in fruit confit expression, nevertheless still clearly opposed by taut acidity.

A balanced harmony between structure and finesse, closes a drink from the long lasting aroma, with mushrooms, coffee, saffron and a touch of salt references.

I wish you happy 2015!

Friday, 19 December 2014

Aubry Champagne Brut Classique Premier Cru n.v.

This is a blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay.

In the glass I find a bright gold, with fine and nice creaminess.
The nose smells of yeast, citrus and flowers, raspberry and white peach, melon and almond.

In the mouth goes dry gently. Juiciness is in the foreground, with excellent freshness and lively acidity. Shortly dosed - 6 grams / liter - as I like.
Balanced in all its components with a savory and mineral trail.

Long and persistent finish for a dangerous drink.

Tuesday, 16 December 2014

Cascina Tavijn Barbera “Bandita” 2011

A ruby-purple, dark, promising to be fresh and maintains, after a few years, still intact fruitiness.

The nasal impressions are dominated by so much crispy fruit - red orange, cherry, plum - more than a spicy touch and some shades of undergrowth.

The taste confirms coherently and has a precise fruity expression, which reaffirms his authority by allowing, however, for the spicy flavors and humus.

He also persuaded with its tannin alive, its acidity - right without exasperated tones - its fleshiness not separated by a good structure, as well as complete control of alcohol (14 °).

Pleasant, harmonious and refreshing, not very long, with references of spices and tobacco.

Tuesday, 9 December 2014

Brezza Barolo Sarmassa 2004

The color is garnet and the nose initially is closed like a clam, conceding only alcohol. After a few hours starts to show aromas of dried leaves and undergrowth, with so much red fruit, cherry and plum, black cherry and blackberry.

This aromatic range is confirmed precisely by the taste. A proper acid-tannic balance, with a nice mineral profile while the sip is complex and dynamic.

It ends long enough with notes of tobacco and black cherry.

Friday, 5 December 2014

Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino 2006

A brilliant and bright ruby red. It occurs slowly and after a couple of hours shows off all his class and elegance from rich nose of plum, black cherry, rose, china, rhubarb and juniper. Still releases purple, berry, tobacco and sweet spices.

The palate is charming, pure Sangiovese race, without compromise. The attack is elegant, warm with balanced acidity. Crispy and chewy fruit. On the palate there is a precise and clear compliance with the olfactory register. Vibrant tannins, balanced by nice acidity and harmonic savory-mineral veins.

The extreme freshness has resulted in a truly amazing drinkability, unrestrained, I confess. Large and complex while revealing his youth.
Great cleanliness and precision. It closes really long, with balsamic nuances. In the glass, now empty, a long, heady notes of cut tobacco.

Tuesday, 2 December 2014

Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2007

It's difficult to add something, about the company, about the wine and, in particular, about the vintage, high rated by expertise tasters and winner as the Italy's best wine in 2012.

A lovely bright gold, with a nose that is already open and all forged on hydrocarbons, mineral elegance and lots of gunpowder.
Spent an half hour, it gains in complexity, with citrus and tropical hints - grapefruit and passion fruit - with aromas of resin, and dried flowers - hay and chamomile, rosemary and sage - and a wonderful iodine note, softened by notes of honey.

The taste, precise and rich, amplifies, exalting, the olfactory notes, offering a symmetrical and compact mouth, stunning in its perfection and balanced in all its components.
The verticality is clear, there is tension and the depth of sip is very refined.
Very long and endless persistence, with strong references of fruit, iodine, oyster and chalk.

An abyss with the other producers of Trebbiano - also in price - and impossible to forget it.

Friday, 28 November 2014

Giuseppe Rinaldi Freisa 2012

The Freisa is one of the oldest native grapes of Piedmont and, in my opinion, one of the best.

This Freisa is rich, with so much of minerality, that immediately strikes the nose and then leaves out the character of the fruit smelling of strawberry and raspberry, black cherry and red orange, and the intensity of a dried rose and rosemary. A strong spicy touch, with ferrous and china, enrich this shining olfactory profile.

The taste is very young, with an exemplary acidity. Meeting everyone, I mean everyone, the companions of the olfactory parade, to the last, with the minerality that, on the palate, has connotations of gunpowder.
There is everything: complexity, tannins, compulsive drinking - long and persistent - with final references of licorice.

No doubt one of the best interpretations of Freisa grape, maybe the best.

Monday, 24 November 2014

Cos Frappato 2011

The grape is not as well known. Often does not dance alone, as it goes well with the Nero d'Avola to christen the Cerasuolo.

In the glass, the ruby is warm, bright and brilliant.
On the nose there are aromas of an island that I love. Fruit and spices above all. It attacks on greedy sweetness with orange very firm, mixed with black currant, pomegranate and cherry, followed by a beautiful floral and hints of moss and cinchona.
But what strikes me is the spicy physiognomy - cinnamon and mace - as well as an inspired iodized footprint.

The mouth reflects, with even greater rigor and goodies, the olfactory pathways, reserving ample space to the fruit - pomegranate and dark orange in great progression – and to the tangy-spicy aspect, within an excellent acid-tannic balance.

It closes fresh, long and layered, with balsamic waves and refined evolution of resin, cinnamon and citrus.

Friday, 21 November 2014

Montevertine - Montevertine 2004

Ninety percent Sangiovese with small change of Canaiolo and Colorino make up this highly successful blend. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in cement tanks, with aging in large barrels casks for two years.

It is a bright and shining ruby, without failure or compromise.
On the nose there is an explosion of ripe dark fruit with black cherry taking the lead, followed by currant and blackberry.
The bottle slowly opens and gives hints of juniper, mediterranean vegetation, bay with hints of undergrowth, blood and earthy notes, accompanied by signs of leather, black pepper and mace.

On the palate is classic Sangiovese race, marked by great complexity and balance. The taste is elegant and voluptuous. The mouth is an accurate and chiseled eyewitness of the olfactory register. Enviable freshness combined with balmy elegance. The drink is delicious and supported by a restrained acidity. It ends with hints of tobacco and sweet spices.

An astonishing stylistic precision.

Monday, 17 November 2014

Bollinger Special Cuvée n.v.

This cuvée is the result of 60% Pinot Noir (of which 35 percent comes from the village of Ay), 25% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier. It matures on its lees for three years, more than twice the minimum required by the regulations (15 months). The vins de réserve are stored in magnums, whose purpose is to slow down the oxidation process.

The dress is brilliant golden yellow with noble and austere, fine and durable bubble. The nose is elegant, intense and persistent, with toasted hazelnut, almond and coffee. It continues with sponge cake, crust crispy bread and hay, citrus, cedar and pineapple.

The mouth is nothing more than a confirmation. Elegant and dry input, large and complex palate, with great balance. The sip is creamy and fruity, with returns of pastry. A strong minerality gives the momentum.

A fine acidity holds an imposing structure, very well integrated. The persistence is long and remarkably.
An indisputable excellence of a unique maison.

Friday, 14 November 2014

Le Ragnaie Rosso di Montalcino 2010

Here we are on the highest hills - around six hundred meters above sea level - around Montalcino.

This is a certified organic company, which I follow for a while and I advise you to seriously consider it, because I’m talking about high quality products, including extra virgin olive oil.

This is, obviously, Sangiovese, a red ruby crystal.
The bouquet is varietal and with good amplitude. Immediately, strikes me as a clear and pleasant balsamic note: laurel and eucalyptus. I meet precise fruity notes of bitter orange, cherry and blackberry.

On the mouth it is rich and, at the same time, fine and mellow.
A good freshness and acidity go hand in hand, resulting in a smoother drink addictive. Very beautiful taste progression, with streaks savory closing.

A drink that says, faithfully, its territory.

Monday, 10 November 2014

Brezza Barolo Castellero 2001

Here we are in Barolo, where the Brezza’s are traditionalist producers of Barolo wine since four generations. “Castellero” is the name of the cru and the 2001 is, rightly considered, an historic vintage.

The view is garnet red with orange nuances. There are definite hints of undergrowth such as moss and humus, with notes of sweet spice and maraschino.

The mouth is warm, dry, and broadly aligned with the sense of smell. The cup slowly opens and gives an hight quality aromatic complexity. Meeting spices, black cherry, tobacco and a slight earthy note. The tannins seem like velvet and the sip balanced with alcohol.

It ends with good persistence, paying something in freshness.

Friday, 7 November 2014

San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico 2009

95 parts of Sangiovese and 5 of Canaiolo for this Chianti Classico lively and brilliant ruby.

The olfactory spectrum is quite wide, with a beautiful and typical fruity expression, ranging from small berries - blueberry and strawberry – up to cherry, red orange, followed by a refreshing floral and balsamic paths and subtle spiciness.

In the mouth it is fresh, well balanced, but a bit '... so tight. So I thought I'd try again after 24 hours. Good choice, because I met that aromatic cleansing, which usually distinguishes this winery.
So I found freshness and consistency, acidity and right tannins.

Monday, 3 November 2014

Togni Rebaioli 1703

846 bottles only of this Nebbiolo, coming from Valcamonica mountains (Lombardia region) but how much effort here, because here we are at 1,700 meters above sea level. Spontaneous fermentation and steel only.

On the nose the classic freshness rocky mountain, and also a silent elegance. A fine aromatic palette made of cherry and plum, blackberry and raspberry, with slight spicy raids and a plot eucaliptic wrap, inside a thin mineral design.

On the mouth the attack is fresh and gentle, with rational appeals to the olfactory impressions. It starts from the fruit - plum, blackberry and cherry - with accurate balsamic and mineral projections, for a drink full of character.
Good acid-tannic balance, with a determined and persistent end on savory notes and spicy.

A different way, but pointed, drinking Nebbiolo.

Friday, 31 October 2014

Le Chiuse Rosso di Montalcino 2009

Here we are in Montalcino, Tuscany, and this is Sangiovese one hundred percent.
It’s clear and bright ruby red.
The plot smell is fragrant and fruity with hints of black cherry, blackberry and violet. A wonderful and convinced spiciness emerges slowly, but very straight.

On the mouth the attack is warm and dry and there is consistency with the nose to which is added a note of tobacco well-defined. Good freshness and lively acidity transform this bottle in pure pleasure. Beautiful closing tangy-spicy with good persistence.

In the presence of this quality the price is really small and inviting purchase.

Monday, 27 October 2014

Bruno Gottardi Pinot Nero “Mazzon” 2009

The cru Mazzon is located in the small village of Egna, Italy north-west (province of Bolzano), and this is a first order company for the quality of this cru.

The color is a transparent ruby red.
The aromas are very elegant: raspberry, cherry, red fruit, a pronounced spiciness, with a balsamic and herbaceous touch.

The palate is fine, persuasive. Meeting spices, first of all, and a precise correspondence nose-palate. Lively tannins with nice acidity and alcohol in balance. Savory final and quite persistent.
One of the best italian Pinot Noir.

Friday, 24 October 2014

Massa Vecchia Berace 2010

Not even six thousand bottles for this blend consisting of Merlot 40%, Sangiovese 40%, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The glass has a beautiful ruby red. The nose is assaulted by red berry fruits - strawberry and blueberry, blackberry and cherry – with a pleasant hints of plant and tobacco.

On the mouth it is lively and reproduces, quite consistently, the smell expressions, with regard to the fruity appearance.

Good acidity, a balanced slender body, these are the hallmarks of this bottle, which has shown remarkable drink agility.
It closes with good persistence, with fruity and sapidity flavors.

Wednesday, 22 October 2014

Vini di Vignaioli 2014 | Fornovo di Taro

Sunday 2nd and Monday 3rd of November, unmissable, in Fornovo di Taro, near Parma, the thirteenth edition of Vini di Vignaioli.

I recommend this event, in particular, to those who follow, carefully, the organic wine world. It’ a way to come into direct contact with the winegrowers.
Also this year over a hundred winegrowers and the possibility, as usual, to purchase the wines in tasting.

But Vini di Vignaioli is not only wine, in fact you will find a pavilion of food products, as well as a section about the publishing industry.
The list of the winegrowers attending, the event times and other information, by consulting the site.

Monday, 20 October 2014

Michel Gonet Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2004

Michel Gonet is a winegrower - récoltant-manipulant - from Avize, a small village in the Côte des Blancs, cultivating about forty acres.
Today I’m writing about a blanc de blancs, made from only Chardonnay grapes coming from vineyards classified Grands Crus of Oger and Mesnil sur Oger, expression of a single vintage.

In the glass a rich and luminous yellow gold, with oxidized drifts. The perlage is quite dense and persistent, with a nice creamy effervescence.
The olfactory register is initially tight, but after half an hour starts to unfold.
I feel distinctly, honey, chamomile, coffee, dried fruit, lightly toasted, hints of iodine and chalky.

On the palate the entry is dry and pleasant, with nice freshness and a good correspondence nose-mouth. Minerality and chalk mainly, with oxidized nuances. A good balance, a good structure and just dosed. Tangy final  and slightly bitter.
A champagne throughout the meal.

Saturday, 18 October 2014

Piacere Barbaresco 2014 | Barbaresco

This weekend - 18 saturday and 19 sunday october - I recommend the appointment with the eighth edition of Piacere Barbaresco, organized by the Enoteca Regionale of Barbaresco, in Barbaresco.

This year the focus will be on the vintages 2009, 2010 and 2011 and will be attended by more than fifty producers, over a hundred tasting labels, with possibility purchasing the wines tasted, at the adjoining Enoteca Regionale.

The event, as usual, will be held at the Hall of the Municipality of Barbaresco, from 10 to 19.

Friday, 17 October 2014

Bressan Mastri Vinai Verduzzo 2007

A bit late harvest and long maceration for an intense orange glass.
The nose is fresh, with a strong mineral incipit, which develops an avalanche of yellow fruits, including tropical - dried apricot, nectarine and citrus confit, figs and dates - a hint of honey, some dried grass field and a clean almond note.

The palate, of impressive freshness and aligned in all respects – as ordered by Fulvio! - amplifies the olfactory expression with the wide fruity connotation - also here a lot of apricot, dates and candied citron – that coexists, without trouble, with convincing and strong grains of savory minerality.

Very balanced bottle, and the long maceration having in no way affected the acidity and the vertical tasting. A pleasant tannins verve, helped propelling the sip - full, dry and smooth drink - that has been long persistent and ended with clear indications of almond, date and cigar.
Don’t worry, I did not smoke and I'm not laughing, on the table only an assortment of seasoned cheeses.

A not easy wine and not for everyone, a character wine, with balls, as the style of his father winemaker, Mr. Fulvio.

For me another trip, fulfilling and unforgettable in the Fulvio’s world of wine.

Monday, 13 October 2014

Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia 2009

This winery is one of the icons of Langa, famous throughout the world for the highest quality of its products.
According to Roberto, this vintage is perfect for the Barbera grape and if he says so…

The robe is dark and intense ruby red.
The nose has richness and great complexity, which emerge hints of rose, cherry, raspberry and blackberry, with very noticeable watermelon, still releasing spices, licorice and herbs.

On the palate, very elegant and character, is the revival of the olfactory pathway. This Barbera is voluptuous, inviting and pierces you with its juice. The fruit is very generous, with pronounced minerality and the mouth is very convincing, engaging with acidity. A great freshness holds up an important alcohol content.
The finish is long, complex and refreshing with a hint of blackberries.
An aristocratic drink.

A glass leads to another and too soon you realize that the bowl is empty, sadly, desperately empty. The next time will be magnum size.